Car Checks Explained

Understanding history checks, write-off categories, finance, and what they mean for you.

By the MotorMkt teamPublished Last updated

How we source our data: our free checks use official records from the DVLA (registration & tax) and DVSA (MOT history). Paid full history data — finance, stolen and write-off markers — is supplied by UK Vehicle Data (UKVD), which aggregates industry registers including MIAFTR (insurance write-offs) and the Police National Computer (stolen markers). MotorMkt does not query those registers directly.

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Checking a vehicle?

Enter its registration to check the official tax, MOT and mileage record free. If you need provenance for a purchase or ownership decision, add finance, stolen and write-off checks.

Free: vehicle identity, tax/SORN, MOT history, mileage and buyer red flags.

Full history: adds outstanding finance, stolen, insurance write-off and other paid provenance checks.

The full report is optional. Review the free official record first if you are unsure. Payment is completed securely on the next screen.

Quick Answer

A vehicle history check reveals hidden problems: outstanding finance (finance company can repossess the car from you), write-off history (Cat A/B cannot be driven, Cat S/N can but affect value), stolen status, and mileage discrepancies. Our free check shows MOT history and mileage records. A full history check (paid) reveals finance, write-offs, and stolen status - essential before buying any used car.

What is a History Check?

A vehicle history check searches multiple databases to reveal important information about a car's history that the seller might not disclose – or might not even know about.

What It Checks

  • Outstanding finance – Is the car legally owned by the seller?
  • Insurance write-off status – Has it been written off by an insurer?
  • Stolen status – Is the car on the police stolen register?
  • Mileage discrepancies – Does the recorded history match?
  • Plate changes – Has the registration been changed?
  • Import/export status – Was it imported from abroad?
Insurance Write-Off Categories Explained

When a car is damaged and the insurer decides repair costs exceed its value, it's "written off." The category tells you how severe the damage was — the definitions follow the ABI Salvage Code.

Category A
Scrap Only

The entire vehicle must be crushed. Nothing can be saved. These cars should never appear for sale.

⚠️ If you see a Cat A for sale, report it immediately.

Category B
Body Shell Must Be Crushed

The body shell must be destroyed, but parts can be salvaged. You might see engines or parts from Cat B vehicles, but never the whole car.

⚠️ A Cat B car cannot legally be returned to the road.

Category S
Structural Damage

Structural damage (chassis, frame, etc.) but can be repaired and returned to road. Must be professionally repaired and inspected. These cars are significantly cheaper but can be harder to insure and resell.

✓ Can be driven if properly repaired

⚠️ Always get an independent inspection

⚠️ Disclose when selling – it's legally required

Category N
Non-Structural Damage

Non-structural damage only (bumpers, lights, etc.). Often cosmetic damage where repair cost exceeded value. Can be excellent value if repaired properly.

✓ Often good value for money

✓ Easier to insure than Cat S

⚠️ Still check repair quality

Outstanding Finance

Types of Car Finance

  • HP (Hire Purchase): The car belongs to the finance company until the final payment. Cannot legally be sold without settling the finance.
  • PCP (Personal Contract Purchase): Similar to HP – the car is secured against the loan until settled or a balloon payment is made.
  • Personal Loan: If the seller used a personal loan, it's not secured against the car – the seller owns the car outright.

What to Do

  • • Always run a full history check to reveal finance
  • • Ask the seller directly if there's any finance
  • • Request proof the finance has been settled before paying
  • • If finance exists, the seller must settle it before or at the point of sale
Mileage Verification

"Clocking" – winding back the odometer – is illegal but still happens. A clocked car might seem like a bargain but could have hidden wear and mechanical issues.

How to Spot Clocking

  • • Check MOT history – mileage is recorded at every test
  • • Look for mileage dropping between MOT tests (major red flag)
  • • Compare wear (pedals, steering wheel, seats) to claimed mileage
  • • Service history stamps should show progressive mileage
  • • Very low mileage on an older car needs explanation

What Our Free Check Shows

Our free car check displays the full MOT mileage history, making it easy to spot discrepancies. Look for consistent increases – any decrease or suspicious jump should be investigated.

Understanding MOT History

MOT history is publicly available from the DVSA MOT history service and tells you a lot about how a car has been maintained. Every test records mileage, pass/fail status, and any advisories.

What to Look For

Good Signs

  • • Consistent pass record
  • • Advisories addressed by next test
  • • Regular mileage increments
  • • Tested at same/reputable garage

Warning Signs

  • • Multiple failures
  • • Same issues recurring
  • • Mileage discrepancies
  • • Tested at different garages each time

Common MOT Advisories

  • Tyres approaching limit: Will need replacing soon
  • Brake pads worn: Budget for replacement
  • Light surface corrosion: Minor rust, monitor it
  • Oil leak: Could be minor or serious – get it checked
Before You Buy Checklist
  • Run our free car check for MOT history and mileage verification
  • Get a full history check to reveal finance, write-off status, and stolen status
  • If Cat S/N, get an independent inspection to verify repair quality
  • If there's finance, get proof it's settled before paying
  • Check MOT mileage matches what the seller claims
Frequently asked questions
What is a history check?
A vehicle history check searches multiple databases to reveal a car's hidden history including outstanding finance, insurance write-off status, stolen status, mileage discrepancies, plate changes, and import/export status. It's essential before buying any used car.
What do write-off categories mean?
Category A means scrap only (entire vehicle must be crushed). Category B means body shell must be crushed but parts can be salvaged. Category S means structural damage that can be repaired and returned to road. Category N means non-structural damage only (bumpers, lights) and is often good value if repaired properly.
What happens if I buy a car with outstanding finance?
If there's outstanding finance on a car, the finance company legally owns it - not the seller. If you buy it, the finance company can repossess it from you, and you'd lose both the car AND your money. Always run a history check to reveal any finance.
How can I spot a clocked car?
Check MOT history for mileage dropping between tests (major red flag). Compare wear on pedals, steering wheel and seats to claimed mileage. Service history stamps should show progressive mileage. Very low mileage on an older car needs explanation. Our free car check displays full MOT mileage history.